Candles 4U Blog - The blog for candle lovers!

Most people choose to begin their candle making experience by making container candles, but a select few choose to begin with molded candles. Most often molded candles, such as votives and pillars, are a next step for somewhat experienced candle makers.

While making molded candles is not necessarily more difficult than making container candles, they do demand a bit more technique, a few more supplies and most often require a greater time investment in determining the best use of additives and learning the molded candle craft. 
 
The main difference between container candles and molded candles is the use of molds.

Instead of pouring melted wax directly into a container where the candle will set up permanently, molds are used to cool the candle into a desired shape and are then released from the mold. Using molds requires the use of a release agent to make sure the mold comes off the candle once it is done cooling. 

Although candle molds can be purchased at most craft and hobby stores, you will find a much wider selection at one of the many specialty candle supply retailers online. Depending on the volume of molded candles you are making, you will want to be sure that you purchase enough molds to keep you continually pouring, keeping in mind that the molds will have to remain on the candles until the candles are hard enough to remove the mold.
 
Another difference between container and molded candles is the type of wax used in their production.

Molded candles use medium to high melting point wax. The waxes are typically much harder than those used for containers. When purchasing your wax, be sure to read the wax descriptions to see if it is made for use in the type of candles you are planning to pour. For example, many wax suppliers even go so far as to name their waxes with descriptors such as ‘votive blend’ or ‘pillar blend’. The more time you spend choosing your wax, the better the likelihood you will produce candles you are happy with.

Votive candles are one of the easiest molded candles you can make. They also require less wax to make than pillar candles, so they are ideal for the beginner. If you are unhappy with your initial results and need to make adjustments, it will require less wax to experiment with votives than it will with pillars.

Pillar candles are the other common type of molded candles. While votives tend to be offered in a few standard sizes, the size and shape options for pillars are far more varied. Not only do they vary in height, but also in diameter and shape. 
 
The best resource for detailed instructions on how to make molded candles is the retailer where you purchased your wax. If you chose to purchase wax and supplies from one of the many online, specialty candle making retailers, they typically offer detailed instructions for each type of wax they sell. Simply look up the wax you choose to work with and go from there.

Many of these sites also offer message boards where you can pick up some valuable tips from experienced molded candle makers to help you save time and money on troubleshooting. If you choose to buy your supplies elsewhere, there are many books available on the subject of candle making that are sure to take you in the right direction.  
     

With any worthy craft there are bound to be minor troubles. If you have ever spent any amount of time pouring candles, you will find yourself troubleshooting eventually. Each candle type presents its own special challenges, and here we are going to cover the most common concerns and frustrations related to molded candles.

While molded candles can be made with a variety of waxes, this article primarily addresses common issues that arise with the use of paraffin wax as natural waxes sometimes have their own troubleshooting issues to address.
 
One of the most common questions concerning molded candles is what to do if the candle will not come out of the mold. Typically this is caused by one of the following reasons.

You may have overfilled the mold causing the wax to set over the lip of the mold. If this happens, gently break away some of the dried wax from the lip and try not to go over the lip of the mold when you pour in the future.

Another reason is that your mold may be dented. If this is the case, you will most likely need to purchase a new mold. When molds are not in use, make sure they are stored in a safe place, preferably in their original packaging to prevent dents.

Sometimes the wax may have not had time to cool completely and is still adhering to the mold. Simply allow it to cool completely and try again. Lastly, you may be using a wax that is too soft. Make sure you are using a wax specifically made for making molded candles.
 
Another common problem is the formation of white spots all over the surface of the candle.

If you experience this, you may have added too much fragrance oil. Consider reducing the amount of fragrance oil or consider adding vybar to the wax mixture to help the wax retain the oil. This problem may also be caused by the candle cooling too slowly. If this is the case, try using a water bath to cool the candle more quickly.

If the surface of your candle has frost marks, typically the wax was too cool when it was poured, or the mold was too cold when the wax was poured into it. Make sure that you pour the wax between 180 and 200 degrees Fahrenheit (82 to 93 degrees Celsius), and make sure your molds are at room temperature before pouring into them.
 
If you experience your candles caving in or forming a well in the top, both of these issues are most likely a result of not poking relief holes in the wax after the first pour. Always make sure to poke relief holes in the wax after the first pour to make sure the tension is released while the candle is cooling. As the candle cools, do a second pour making sure that the wax is cooled enough to support additional wax, but not yet completely cooled.

There are numerous issues that may arise when pouring molded candles. Just keep in mind that other candle makers have probably experienced them too, and there is almost always a way to correct the issue if you seek help. Try checking online candle making message boards to see if the issue has been addressed there - most likely you’ll find a discussion about the problem, as well as solutions to fix it.

With any worthy craft there are bound to be minor troubles. If you spend any amount of time pouring candles, you will eventually spend some time troubleshooting. Here are the most common concerns and complaints about container candles and tips to alleviate some of the frustration all candle makers undoubtedly feel at one point or another. 

While container candles can be made with a variety of waxes, here we’re going to primarily address common issues that arise with the use of paraffin wax as natural waxes sometimes have their own troubleshooting issues to address.
 
One issue is the presence of lines on the inside of the glass. Most often, this problem occurs for one of two reasons. Either the container was not preheated before the wax was poured into it, or the wax was too cool when it was poured. To avoid this issue, try preheating your containers using a heat gun, or your oven on the lowest setting, before pouring into them. Also, try to pour your candles when the wax temperature is between 155 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit (68 to 79 degrees Celsius). 
 
Another common container candle issue is when the flame burns a tunnel down the middle of the candle. Typically, this is caused by one of two reasons.  Most often either the wick used in the candle is too small, or the candle was not burned for a long enough period of time. If you are experiencing tunneling, try using a larger wick size or consider double wicking. 

If this alone does not appear to be the problem, pay attention to the length of time you are burning the candle. The ideal burn time is long enough for the melt pool to form completely across the top of the candle before extinguishing. When wicked properly, this should occur in one to two hours.
 
Another common issue is the formation of discolored splotches on the sides of the candle. Usually, these splotches are the result of either having too much fragrance oil in the wax mixture or from having too much of the wrong type of additive in the wax.

If you believe that fragrance may be the issue, try reducing the amount of fragrance or adding vybar to the mixture to help the wax retain the oil. If you believe that additives are the issue, just remember to always use the least amount of additives necessary to achieve your desired result.
 
If you experience problems with the wick smoking too much when the candle is burning, you may have one of the following issues. The wick you are using may be too large, the wick needs to be trimmed, or the candle is in an area with too much draft. Try using a smaller wick, keep your wick trimmed to about one quarter of an inch, and make sure that there are no drafts where you are burning the candle. Also keep in mind that some waxes do tend to smoke more than others.
 
If your wick will not stay lit, your wick may be too small or you may have used too much dye and/or fragrance oil. If the wick is too small, it cannot consume wax fast enough to keep it above the wax level. Try using a larger wick to correct this. If you believe you used too much dye or fragrance oil, reduce the quantity and try again.
 
When container candles cool, sometimes the tops appear bumpy or rough. If this happens to you, consider placing the candle in the oven on the lowest setting to re-heat the wax. Let it cool again and see if the problem persists. Another technique is to use a heat gun along the top layer of the candle to re-heat it. Again, let it re-cool and see if this corrects the issue. 

If you are still experiencing the problem, consider doing a top pour on the candle. A top pour uses leftover wax from the candle by re-heating it and pouring it over the already cooled candle creating a new, smooth top layer. If you use this technique, be sure to use leftover wax otherwise you’ll have a top layer of a different color.

If your problem is that the top layer of the candle keeps cracking as it cools, then it’s likely that your candles are drying too quickly. Try placing them in a warmer place to cool more slowly, or consider wrapping the containers in aluminum foil so they are insulated and slower to cool.

There are numerous issues that may arise when pouring container candles. If you have other issues not covered here, try searching online candle making message boards to find solutions. Just keep in mind that other candle makers have probably experienced them too, and there is almost always a way to correct the issue if you seek help.